MINIONs

Summary

The efficacy of cosmetic products relies on the controlled penetration of the active ingredients they carry into the skin. Understanding the composition and morphology of the skin barrier is essential to comprehend the mechanisms of diffusion of Active Cosmetic Ingredients (ACI).

Therefore, the development of non-invasive analytical tools describing the skin barrier function is a significant challenge, offering perspectives towards the customization of topical care. This project is based on the development of a multimodal analytical approach, combining Raman spectroscopy, high-resolution ultrasound imaging, photoacoustic imaging, and biological studies to collect in vivo on human skin biochemical information (hydration, lipids, proteins, etc.) and histological information (thickness and organization of skin layers). Taking into account this information and the physicochemical properties of cosmetic forms, correlative and predictive mathematical models of the diffusion kinetics of ACI will be proposed. In the long term, being able to grasp the state of the barrier function through rapid analyses will allow the design of products tailored to each skin type for an optimal effect.

Skin care personalization will be enhanced by the development of a new generation of plasma spray technologies that can modulate the physicochemical properties of topicals without disturbing or mechanically altering the barrier function. Changes in molecular interactions induced at the skin level by the application of CAI in the form of plasma spray could affect their behavior regarding skin penetration, and these mechanisms of action need to be studied for a better understanding and optimization of CAI delivery. The original combination of plasma spray and Raman spectroscopy on the skin in vivo will enable real-time optimization of application conditions and thus personalized customization of dermo-cosmetic care.

In the MINIONs project, industrial partners will benefit from advances in the objective assessment of cosmetic products on live skin, respectively. ERIGER Laboratories (a start-up located in the 37th department) will be able to capitalize on their cosmetic assets and develop their national and international market. TRANSDERMA (37) will be able to enhance its competitive offering and provide tests on live skin models. The company SPINCONTROL (37), in collaboration with academics, will be able to offer a new technique to its clients. In vivo tests are increasingly demanded, and Raman spectroscopy represents a compelling selling point for the company's services, especially among major cosmetic groups.